Softwoods Blog

Being that this blog is here to provide information on Pergolas, Decks, Timber and outdoor entertaining using timber, it makes sense that we cover the types of timber that we sell at Softwoods and give you the reader as much information as possible about them, so that you can make an educated decision about what you are buying. This particular article covers CCA Treated Pine. My primary source in researching this article is the CSIRO, where you will find an exhaustive and likely more coherent outline than mine!

At Softwoods, most of the structural timber that we sell is plantation grown Radiata Pine. In order to prevent movement and rot and to deter pests such as termites and borers, the timber is put through a treatment process once it has been cut and before it is packed and distributed. This process, involves subjecting the cut timber to a solution of chemicals via a vacuum or pressure system which penetrates the timber with the solution and bonds chemically to the timber providing a defense against weathering, movement and pests. The timber is then kiln dried to lock in the treatment solution and remove any excess moisture (which if left wet will result in unpredictable movement)

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Hipages recently made some videos for Softwoods, covering the services that we provide to our customers. One video covers our Pergola services and the other relates to Decking. Have a look for yourself.

Softwoods are committed to providing our customers with all of the care and advice that we can, and we are happy to present here our comprehensive instructions for building a pre cut Softwoods Pergola. This is an extremely long and comprehensive document that will help you through each and every aspect of the building of your structure. For ease of navigation and reading it has been broken into several posts that cover all of the elements required in your build.

This particular set of instructions is for a parallel attached gable roof pre cut pergola kit. Our pre cut pergola kits make the construction of a pergola considerably easier than previously because all of the angles and notches are cut to create a kit that will fit together simply, without the requirement of endless measuring and cutting.

Our assembly method also benefits from pre cutting, allowing a lot of the work to be done on the ground which makes for a safer build. In addition to these instructions there will be further posts on how to install Hip ends, freestanding pergolas and decks in future.

As a guide for you, most of our carpenters can finish a 6x4m parallel attached structure in approximately two days. We would advise that you should take your time and make sure that you are doing everything methodically and properly as it will save you time and money if you get everything right the first time. Following our instructions should mean that you are able to build your pergola as easily and quickly as possible.

Please click through to each article in the series for each step in the process.

Step One – What you need to consider before you build

Step Two – Identifying the elements of your Pergola

Step Three – Marking out

Step Four – Assemble Gable Frames

Step Five – Installing Fascia Brackets

Step Six – Installing Beams and Bottom Chords

Step Seven – Installing Posts

Step Eight – Installing the Rafters and Ridge

Step Nine – Installing Gable Ends and Purlins

Step Ten – Installing Gutters

Step Eleven – Installing Roofing

For further information or any inquiries you might have please get in contact with us via the phone or the form below, we’d love to hear from you.

What You Need To Consider Before You Build

In building a Pergola, you can save yourself a lot of time and hassles down the line if you give some consideration to a few things before you start.

It is very important to check with your local council or shire before building any structure. It is your responsibility to ensure that all relevant approvals have been obtained and that the structure that you are attaching to (likely your home) is suitable to support the additional load imposed by your new pergola. In the absence of approval, a council or shire can reasonably demand that any structure you have built be pulled down. Obviously this is not a desirable outcome so we strongly recommend that you get your approval first!

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Step Two- Identifying the elements of your Pergola

In order to successfully put together your pre cut pergola kit, you will need to be able to identify all of the elements of the structure. Furthermore we will be referring to all of the pieces by their names from here on in, so it makes sense to establish what is what at this point.

Your kit will be delivered with a bill of materials and a cutting list. The names of each timber on the list correspond to their names in the diagram below (click on the diagram to enlarge it) Before building anything, conduct a thorough check to ensure you have every piece of timber.

To help you identify and assemble the timber members they have been marked. The markings are on the cut ends so that they will be visible when the timber is painted and not visible once the structure is complete.  There are some members that you will need to mark, however we recommend that you should paint all members before marking anything.

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Step Three – Marking out

Once steps one and two are completed it’s time to begin marking out your pergola. Marking out your pergola is not unlike a preparing food before you cook. Being well prepared allows you to put your pergola together quickly and easily, and means that you won’t have to stop or go back in the middle of building.

A major benefit of a Softwoods pre cut gable pergola is that a lot of the measuring and marking has been done for you. Other tasks that would have previously been done ‘in the air’ when the structure is partly constructed can now be done safely and accurately on the ground.

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Step Four-Assemble Gable Frames

The next step in building your Softwoods pre cut gable pergola is to assemble your gable frames. It’s at this point that you might finally start to get the feeling that you are actually building something! However as with the previous steps, this step is also preparation for the building to come.

Gable frames consist of the internal rafters and collar ties, which are made into an A shaped frame to be lifted into the structure once the beams have been installed. Your gable frames will provide the internal shape to your structure, so it’s important to make sure that they are all of a uniform shape and size. Your frames will be made on the ground then lifted into place later. You will need to do this on a flat surface for the most accuracy.

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Step Six – Installing Beams & Bottom Chords

At this stage of your pergola’s construction, you are probably wondering when you will actually get to do some building. The answer is right now. By this point, you have successfully prepared yourself to build your own pergola in the simplest safest and quickest way possible. It’s time to start building the frame of your structure.
Install fascia beam

Now that you have your fascia brackets in position it is time to put up the fascia beam. The beam is to be bolted onto the brackets with 10mm diameter cup head bolts. Obviously it’s a much better idea to drill your bolt holes on the ground than in the air, but in order to do so we must first determine the required position of the holes so that they fit the brackets.

Lift up the beam (with someone else’s help) and hold it against the brackets ensuring the top of the beam is in line with the top of the gutter. Your gutter probably falls to one side so it’s best to line it up with the gutters highest point. Once you are happy with the position of the fascia beam clamp it to at least two of the fascia brackets so that it is held securely in place. Use a spirit level to ensure the fascia is sitting level. Then, using a pencil, reach around the back of the beam and trace around the inside of two of the bracket holes for every bracket.

Once you have completed this for every bracket you can un clamp and take the beam down and drill through all of the holes you have marked.

After all of the holes have been drilled, pick the beam back up and place it against the matching fascia brackets, making sure that the beam is the right way around. Fix the beam in place with 2 x M10 cup head bolts for every bracket.

Install bottom chords

Once the fascia beam is in place and level you can commence the installation of the bottom chords. The first thing that you must do is half nail 2 x 75mm bullet head nails to each end of the bottom chords. This will make it easier to nail into the fascia beam once the bottom chord is in place. Use the picture below as a guide.

Using a prop for support, position the bottom chord at the end of the fascia beam (Many types of props are available for hire. You can also clamp or nail a purlin to the beam as a makeshift prop) temporarily fix the bottom chord to the fascia beam with the nails you have half nailed into the mitred ends.

Repeat this process and install the other bottom chord to the other end of the fascia beam. Once you have both bottom chords attached check that they are both level. Also make sure that the notched sections on both bottom chords are positioned on the top of the chord.
To complete the connection between the bottom chord and the fascia beam a heavy duty L bracket is used.

Position the L bracket in place then select two holes on each face of the bracket and drill through. Fit 2 x M10 bolts on each face of the bracket, fit the nuts and tighten to secure the bottom chord in place. The prop will be required to hold the chord up until posts have been installed and fastened.

Install perimeter beam

The perimeter beams are completed with the installation of the main beam which connects the two bottom chords.

Partially nail 2 x 75 bullet head nails in both ends of the beam as you did with the bottom chords to make it easier to attach to the chords when the beam is lifted into position.

Lift the beam into position (with somebody’s help and using props about a metre from each end of the beam) so that the mitres at either end of the beam marry in with the mitres of the bottom chords. Your beam should fit perfectly.

Fix the beam to the ends of the bottom chords with the temporary nails that you have in position. These two corners will be secured with the installation of the corner posts, so there is no need for an L bracket at this point. However the chords and beams must be well supported by props so that no movement occurs.

Before proceeding with the installation of posts it is important to check that the frame is square. This can be done by measuring the width and length in two or three places along the structure. Or for a more accurate method, use the diagram below. Lines 1 and 2 should be of equal length, 3 and 4 equal length. Join the diagonally opposite corners with a string line making lines 5 and 6, checking that the string is the same length. This method ensures that all sides are parallel and square.

Once you are sure that your frame is square and level you can move on to the next step, Installing your Posts

How to build a Gable Roof Pergola – Step Seven – Installing Posts

How to build a Gable Roof Pergola

For further information or any inquiries you might have please get in contact with us via the phone or the form below, we’d love to hear from you.

Step Seven-Installing Posts

The frame of your Softwoods pergola is almost complete and now it’s time to install posts to make the structure stand up. This step is once again very important to get right as once the posts are set it’s extremely difficult to fix any mistakes you have made to this point. Once you have the posts installed you will really be able to see some progress in your pergola and all of the preparing and marking out that you did earlier will start to pay off for you.

Marking the beam

From your plans you can work out where the posts are to be located. Measure and mark the centres of the post locations on the beam with a pencil line indicating where the centre of the post will be.

Measure and cut post to length

To determine the exact length the post needs to be, a few measurements are required. Firstly measure from the top of the beam at the position of each post, to the point on the ground where the posts will be fastened.

As the posts do not go to the very top of the beam, you will need to subtract from the measurement that you have a Post Set Down (PSD) amount, which is the depth of your beam minus the depth of the notch out on the post.

Finally, the amount the post will be above the ground is also required to be subtracted. This may vary depending on the style of post shoe you have or whether you plan to pave in the future. Use the diagram below to help you.

Just to be clear, the exact length of the post is the total height (from the top of the beam to the floor) minus the Post Set Down minus the ground clearance.

Once you are certain that you have this measurement correct carefully cut the post to this length with your power tools. After you have cut the post be sure to spray the cut ends with a timber preservative.

Fit the post shoe

Now that the posts have been cut to the correct length the post shoes need to be fitted for each post. Follow the appropriate instructions from the previous diagram to suit the post shoe type you have. Please pay particular attention to ensure that the base of the post is the distance you require above the seat of the post shoe.

Determine location of post hole and dig hole
Once you have all of your posts fitted with shoes you can move on to digging the holes to fit your posts and then concreting in the post shoes. Holes are located directly under the posts so that the posts can be easily plumbed.

A simple ‘plumb bob’ can be made by attaching a weight to the end of a piece of string. Attach the other end of the string to the beam at the position you have marked for the centre of each post. Let the weight hang just above ground level (you may need to adjust the length of string to achieve this) and (barring any howling winds!) it will be located directly above the centre of where you will need to dig the footing hole.

You will find the required footing size for your posts on your plans. Dig a hole to these dimensions at every point that a post is required. It is important that you make sure that your footings are the correct size as they are essential in anchoring your pergola in extreme weather conditions.

Fit the post and pour concrete

Now that you have your holes in place, you can fit the posts to the beam. The posts are to be fitted to the beam while the structure is still on props so that the beams don’t fall with the posts into the holes. Once the posts are fitted, the shoes should sit above the bottom of the holes that you have dug for them. This way you can fill the holes around the shoes and they can set in exactly the right place.

You should have already worked out where the centre of the posts are supposed to be on your beams, and marked this point. From this point, measure outward half of the width of the post in both directions from this mark. Eg an 88mm wide post measure and mark 44mm each side of the centre. This will locate where the edges of each post will be fixed.

Lightly project these marks down the face of the beam to provide a guide for lining the post up. To position the post place the post shoe in the hole first and lift the post up so that the beam rests nicely in the pre cut notch.

When the post aligns with the markings each side, clamp post and beam together. Final, small adjustments can be made by loosening and tightening your clamps.

Make sure that the post is level and when you’re satisfied that it is, drill through the post and the beam, using you spirit level to make sure that the post alignment is correct. Bolt the post to the beam using 2 or 3 M10 bolts. Make sure that you have the bolt heads on the outside of the beam.

Once you have fastened each post, mix your concrete according to the manufacturers instructions and pour it into the footing holes. Before you pour any concrete, do a last check to see that your beams and bottom chords are level as well as your posts.

Pouring the concrete, unless done very carefully may cause the post to be moved out of level – quickly check each post after pouring and return it to level if this occurs. Repeat this for all of the posts and also check the levels of previous posts as you go.

Once all of the concrete is poured, and all holes are filled, you should leave the structure propped until the concrete has set. It is best to leave it over night as working on the structure may result in your pergola being moved out of square as the concrete cures. Once the concrete has completely set, you can remove the props as it will now stand alone.

Now that you have completed this step, you can move onto the next phase, Installing the Rafters and Ridge.

How to build a Gable Roof Pergola – Step Eight – Installing the Rafters and Ridge

How to build a Gable Roof Pergola

For further information or any inquiries you might have please get in contact with us via the phone or the form below, we’d love to hear from you.

Step Eight- Installing the Rafters and Ridge

Once the frame and the posts are installed, your pergola will look like it is beginning to come together. It’s now time to receive the payoff from your earlier work assembling gable frames. Erecting the gable frames is a quick and simple step and will leave you with what looks like an almost finished gable pergola. Putting the frames up is probably the easiest and the most fun part of your project.

The frames are installed with a minimum of two people per frame(Illustrations here only have one person, but we recommend two) To put them in place, stand a ladder at each beam below the corresponding joist hangers which you have already installed. Lift one end of the gable frame into one of the joist hangers so it is pushed in as far as possible.

With one person holding the end that’s in the joist hanger in place, lift the other end up to the opposite joist hanger and slip it into place also. Ensure you keep the first end of the gable frame securely positioned in the joist hanger while you do this as you could either break your gable frame or injure yourself if the frame falls. Once both rafters are in place push both down firmly to ensure they are positioned completely in the joist hangers and against the beams.

Once the gable frame is up and firmly in place, secure each side by driving a flat connector head nail into each hole of the joist hanger.

Repeat this process for all of the gable frames in your structure. Be careful to make sure that you position all of your frames with the collar ties on the same side.
Installing the ridge

Now that all of the gable frames are up and securely fastened you can move on to installing the ridge. The first step in installing your ridge is to gently slide it into the gap above your collar ties and below your rafters. The ridge should sit on top of the collar ties and run the length of your pergola.

With a ladder at each end alongside the bottom chords, 2 people should be able to lift and push the ridge beam into position in the gap at the top of both sets of rafters. Make sure that when you do this the notch in the ridge is on the under side.

Once in position, the top of the ridge beam should line up with the top of both sets of rafters. The rafters will support the ridge but you should be careful not to push it too far up as it can be quite difficult to pull down. Once the ridge is in place you can use your spirit level to make sure the end of the ridge is lined up with the outside face of the bottom chord.

If the centre of the rafters do not line up with the marks on top of the ridge you will need to tap them into place. Do this using a block to protect the timber of the rafters from damage by the hammer.

Once the rafters are in place fix them to the ridge with 3x75mm nails, 1 in from the top of the rafter and 1 skew nailed in either side. As you fix each gable frame to the ridge you can also fix the 600mm rafter strap over the top of the rafters and ridge. To do this, use 5 connector nails in the holes on the strap on each side of the ridge.

Now that you have completed and fastened your gable frames and your ridge, you can move onto the next step, which is the installing gable ends and purlins

How to build a Gable Roof Pergola – Step Nine – Installing Gable Ends and Purlins

How to build a Gable Roof Pergola

For further information or any inquiries you might have please get in contact with us via the phone or the form below, we’d love to hear from you.